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Do you screw all of your modules in?


#21

There is an elephant in the room though. Often when trying to get diagnostic information out of a user with a module that is mysteriously not booting up anymore, it feels too much like I’m trying to get him to incriminate himself. If I state up front “Don’t worry. I will cover the repair costs no matter what you say. Please just tell me exactly what happened and don’t leave anything out.” then the details are in general more forthcoming. It’s a difficult dilemma that I certainly didn’t think of when I started doing this business. Warranty judgements basically have to rely on the user’s honor. Which isn’t necessarily a bad thing because it does encourage one to build robust products.


#22

Rabid Elephant modules have a ‘full metal jacket’ on the back - I feel like you could throw them against the wall, watch them bounce around the room and they would be completely unscathed - not that I am going to put this to the test mind!


#23

I do like Mannequins designs for Just Friends, 3 Sisters, etc., where there is a PCB with a design on back and nothing electrical exposed beside the power header.


#24

Hmmm, I guess given the fact that you can’t also spend all day playing inspector Clouseau with customers I can see the elephant. Just seems like a good way to have to suffer some customer abuse. Still such a policy would be even more above and beyond than you already are. So once again, I don’t think it’s necessary. :smile:

Heck I wish you manufactured all the modules in my rack. :+1: Although I am still trying to get a Rabid Elephant module.


#25

I use modular grid to decide placement, and always have screws in place when powering up.

Like Mannequins, Cwejman modules have an additional PCB on the back too. Only the header and calibration dials are accessible. Having the additional panel is also nice when setting the modules down on a work surface (table), they lay flat.

I have Intellijel cases with 1U rows and have considered making a 1U module with usb ports to use as jumpers, connecting them to modules that are updated via usb ports on the backs. Eliminating the need to unscrew the module to update it.


#26

#27

That was seriously entertaining!


#28

I think the metal plate is more of an electrical shielding than a physical protection and I do not feel that the ER-301 is lacking that - surely Brian had installed some shielding if it were necessary. Also I am not sure wether it is a good idea to let the Natural Gate’s back touch the power rails of your rack. As most people I would not consider powering a module without screwing it in safe and within warranty.


#29

Yeah - wasn’t being serious :wink:


#30

Might be worth creating a explicit warranty policy that includes language about not covering repairs due to improperly installed modules (and briefly explains what ‘properly’ looks like). Doesn’t solve the problem of people lying, but introducing the possibility of an expensive non-warranty repair could spur people to not be irresponsible in the first place. I don’t like the vibe of a EULA-style message on a Euro module, but you even could have users acknowledge terms when they boot the 301 for the first time.


#31

I recall Paul Schreiber going on a rant about euro in general… paraphrasing “it’s not a product, it’s a thing! if you showed this stuff to any Electrical Engineer at a real facility designing mainstream products you’d be laughed out of the room”

The only company who has made a euro-module that’s a true ‘product’ … i.e.: it could be sold in walmart alongside a toaster: Roland. It comes with it’s own power, and then entire rear of the module is housed in a plastic shell so there’s no risk of damaging , breaking, shocking anything inside. No access to the guts! I wish this was actually some sort of standard that all euro modules could follow. But of course it won’t.

But it’s sorta true in a way - of all the things us euro end users play with … murky power standards, open cases, questionable grounding, exposed power distribution etc… this is really something that shouldn’t be out in the open. My eyeballs glaze into a paste when I hear of people rolling their own $25 PSU based on random internet info… after investing 7k in modules. WHAT?? NO!!!

The only other exposed product I can think of is 500 series audio processing. But even then, it’s locked down. cartridge based with chassis following a truly standardized mounting guide and power format. You literally can’t F it up.

end rant :slight_smile:


#32

The fact that Euro is expensive, but not so much that middle class people can’t afford it, leads to this sort of false economy with cases and power.

But yeah, it’s amazing how popular Euro is given how consumer unfriendly it is.


#33

Eurorack is somewhat similar to computer parts, as far as being expensive and having delicate exposed bits.


#34

At one point I tried to only use two screws for some module I was going to move, loooong time ago. How knows maybe even in some early videos… I hated it!
It looks ugly, messy, lazy, broken.
So I always use 4 screws per module and yes I only use Knurlies.

In fact, I hate it (really) when I see other people videos with modules not fully screwed in. I assume that person is lazy, superficial, didn’t really want to make that video and he/she can’t wait to move on… :slight_smile:
Don’t want to offend anyone but that’s how I feel when I see that kind of rubbish, sorry.

Oh, about warranty… that would be the same as warranty covering accidental damage, Ops I dropped it to the floor… can I get a new one? I think Apple did that for iPads within a time limit… but it surely is not common practice. So, screw it in, if not… fix it yourself.

Peace :slight_smile:


#35

Q1: Yes I do screw down all of my modules.
Q2: No, don’t think a manufacturer is responsible for any damages incurred by doing this.


#36

I’m glad to be warned of this. I sold and bought a bunch of stuff recently and haven’t bothered to screw anything in. My case has super frustrating slide nuts so i just figured why bother. i’ll be more careful!


#37
  1. i always screw. maybe not all screws (2 of 4 when i’m lazy or out of screws)
  2. if that’s the sure cause of failure then i think no, i don’t think the warranty have to cover it.